Posts Tagged ‘Broads’

Paddling into the New Year

Friday, January 8th, 2016

The end of 2015 and beginning of 2016 saw me out in my two-seater inflatable kayak twice within four days, both trips with my co-paddler Amy Woodyatt. The first was in some spectacularly un-December-like weather, starting on the outskirts of Norwich at the Rushcutters Arms on Thorpe Green, and paddling up the rivers Yare and Wensum into the city centre. I’ve done this trip a few times now, and I really like the fact that it’s totally different from my more common sorties out in the Broads. Once you get within the confines of the city, you have the proximity of buildings, and indeed the occasional interaction with people on the river bank. I also like the floating history lesson – you get to pass beneath several hundred years-worth of bridges crossing the River Wensum, from the medieval Bishops Bridge to Peter Jarrold’s Bridge, an ultra-modern pedestrian / cycleway which sweeps across the river in a curve with very little apparent in the way of support.

At the head of navigation is New Mills, where water comes gushing through sluices, providing the only white water in Norwich. It provided some amusement for a few moments as we had several goes at nosing into the turbulent waters, then allowing the kayak to be spat out of the mini-maelstrom. Our average paddling speed is usually around 2.5 mph, but for the first couple of hundred yards downstream from here, the current can whizz you along so quickly you get to break the 4 mph speed limit!

Our second excursion of the week was on New Year’s Day, launching from Catfield Dyke, paddling across Hickling Broad, along Deep Go Dyke and halfway through Heigham Sound before turning back. Not surprisingly, Europe’s largest wetland nature reserve was deserted. During the winter, the southern end of the broad is home to wintering wildfowl, so we stuck to the main navigation channel rather than meandering around the reedbeds and disturbing them. Paddling back across Hickling Broad, the wind decided to pick up, fortunately behind us. Just as we had with our journey back down the Wensum, it’s always nice when you get that extra helping hand!

Broads National Park

Saturday, January 24th, 2015

When I first published my Kindle book “The Broads: A unique National Park” in 2013, it came under fire from certain quarters. “You can’t describe the Broads as a National Park,” they said, “because it isn’t one. And if you got that wrong, what else have you got wrong?”

The truth is, I didn’t get it wrong – but my detractors are guilty of a huge slice of pedantry. The legislation which covers the protection and management of the Broads is different from the other National Parks, because uniquely, the Broads is predominantly wetland, with navigation interests. And so the Broads has always been described as “enjoying the same protection as a National Park”, or being “a member of the National Park family.”

But foreign tourists don’t see the distinction. If they’re looking to visit somewhere with scenic landscapes, the National Park tag becomes an important deciding factor. And for an area where a large chunk of the local economy is dependent on tourism, trying to explain that “it’s really rather special, but isn’t a National Park per se” has always seemed to me to be rather akin to shooting oneself in the foot.

Fortunately the Broads Authority has recognised the problem, and this week voted to adopt “the brand”. So from now on, it’s the Broads National Park. Better late than never.

Anglia Afloat

Saturday, April 19th, 2014

The last few weeks have seen me pretty busy doing things for Anglia Afloat magazine, my new regular outlet. On the paddling front, it was taking my inflatable kayak away from the Broads for a trip on the River Cam in Cambridgeshire. Not the bit you might think, fighting my way past punts along The Backs in Cambridge (although that is on my hitlist for a future trip). Instead I paddled the lower reaches, starting from the Fish & Duck marina at Pope’s Corner, where the Cam flows into the Great Ouse and Old West.

The plan was to paddle around six miles upstream to Bottisham Lock and then come back. In the normal run of things, that would be quite an easy trip, but after a winter of horrific rainfall, the sluice-controlled flow of the river had been increased, so I was paddling upstream against a pretty stiff current. And as luck would have it, the wind was coming straight at me as well. The result was a pretty tough paddle, and every time I stopped for a breather I would be going backwards instantly. I didn’t quite make it as far as Bottisham Lock, but at least when I did turn back, I had very little to do other than occasional course corrections. It worked out as five miles of strenuous paddling upstream in 2.5 hours, and back again with virtually no paddling in just two!

More recently, I had an assignment to cover a visit by HRH The Princess Royal to the Herbert Woods boatyard in Potter Heigham. Herbert Woods was one of the pioneers of Broads boating holidays, and so the company marked the 60th anniversary of his death with a Heritage Day to which Princess Anne was invited. Two of Herbert Woods’ daughters attended, including one who’d flown in especially for the event from her home in New Zealand, and boat builder Dennis George was presented with a long service award for 50 years working for Herbert Woods.

For me, the nicest part of the Heritage Day was seeing the boats they had on display, from their very latest cruiser Sovereign Light, with bow and stern thrusters, and beautifully fitted out inside, to the oldest Herbert Woods cruiser still afloat – the 1927 built all wood Spark of Light, just oozing traditional charm.

Let your Yare be yeah…

Sunday, January 12th, 2014

My first paddle of 2014 turned out to be the kayak trip down the River Yare I’d been planning for over a month. Planning, because I wanted to be able to leave Norwich at or soon after high tide, which had to be at a point in the morning to enable me to do the 14.5 miles from Norwich to Cantley in daylight hours. Places to launch a kayak or canoe in Norwich are fairly limited, and some involve quite a long drop at anything other than high tide – besides, I wanted the water moving in my direction. And I wanted the wind coming more or less from the west, as I knew that too would be a factor on the lower stretch of the river. When those factors all came together, I was even given the added bonus of sunshine!

Paddling down the Wensum through Norwich city centre is always interesting. I enjoy seeing the familiar places from unfamiliar angles, and kayaks on the water here are scarce enough for you to catch people doing double-takes as they spot you floating by. And I think the Wensum’s various bridges, which date from the 14th to the 21st centuries, look so much better from the water.

I found quite a few sporty rowing types out on the Yare near Whitlingham. Everything from single-seater jobs all the way up to eights with a chap shouting words of encouragement from a following motor boat. I never could see the attraction of rowing, only ever getting to see where you’ve been. I like to see where I’m going!

My final bridge – the last road crossing of the Yare between Norwich and Great Yarmouth – was impressive. The Postwick (pronounced locally as “Pozick”) Viaduct carries the A47 southern bypass around Norwich. When you’re driving along it, you’re merely aware that you’re above the surrounding countryside. From the water, it’s quite an imposing sight, with the bridge spanning not just the river but the entire valley.

A little further on I encountered a chap paddling a sit-on-top kayak, so we stopped and chatted for a few minutes. He mentioned he’d launched from Postwick Wharf a little downstream, where boss of local canoe holiday operator TheCanoeMan Mark Wilkinson was fishing. Having recently interviewed Mark over the phone for my paddling feature in the January 2014 issue of Anglia Afloat magazine, this seemed rather a strange coincidence. So we too had a chat when I arrived there.

Brundall was more or less halfway. With two possible take-out points close to railway stops, this would be my escape route if I found it too hard going. But so far I was doing well.

The river widens out further downstream, and with less tree cover on the banks, the wind was a bit more difficult when it wasn’t directly behind me, and in any event it was putting a bit more of a chop on the water. My first sight of steam rising from the sugar refinery at Cantley came when I still had five miles to go. Talk about tantalising – there was even a moment as I got closer where it seemed I’d overshot, down to the twists and turns of the river, of course.

I was getting pretty tired by the time I pulled in to tie up at the Reedcutter Inn, next door to the sugar refinery at Cantley. Four and a half hours paddling time, and 15 minutes of stops, so I’d managed to average well over 3 mph down a very nearly deserted river. Appropriately enough, the beer I had here was called Endeavour!

The kit
Kayak: Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD

Amazon Kindle book: “The Broads – A unique National Park”. Everything you want to know about the history, wildlife and landscape of the Broads, along with a guide to places you can visit.

Four part harmony

Wednesday, December 11th, 2013

I haven’t been out in my kayak for a few weeks, but with a day that saw heavy mist clear into beautiful sunshine, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get out on the water. More to the point, I wanted to try out a couple of extra items of kit – a large rucksack that takes my Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame inflatable kayak along with all the other equipment, and a paddle which breaks down into four sections so it too can be stowed in the rucksack.

The plan is at some point to try a few longer linear trips using public transport for the return journey. My first one is likely to be from Norwich down the Rivers Wensum and Yare to Cantley, around 15 miles of paddling. After a beer or two and meal at the Reedcutter Inn, it’s just a couple of minutes walk to the station for the return trip to Norwich.

Paddling on the Broads at this time of year is delightful. With virtually no other boats about anywhere, it was incredibly peaceful, and felt as though I was a lot further away from civilisation than I really was. When I took this photo of Barton Broad – the second largest of the Norfolk Broads – I had it all to myself! Then paddling along Limekiln Dyke back to Neatishead Staithe, I had the most amazing close encounter with a kingfisher.

Perched on the branch of an overhanging tree, it would launch itself into the water with a resounding plop, then reappear in the tree seconds later with a small fish in its bill. I watched it do this several times, and although it was quite difficult keeping station without making any noise, it was worth the trouble, as I was just 15 feet away from it. Quite a show!

The kit
Kayak: Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD

Amazon Kindle book: “The Broads – A unique National Park”. Everything you want to know about the history, wildlife and landscape of the Broads, along with a guide to places you can visit.

Broads update

Sunday, August 18th, 2013

Last week saw me out in my kayak once more, crossing Barton Broad and heading downstream along the River Ant, past How Hill and Ludham Bridge. The goal was St Benet’s Abbey, a rather confused structure which combines the ruined gatehouse of a once great monastery with the brick tower of a former windmill.

But while the Ant was relatively quiet, the short stretch of the River Bure was akin to riding a bicycle in the outside lane of the M25! If nothing else, it provided me with the means to test out a different aspect of my new kayak’s performance.

A lot of the passing motor cruisers were very likely breaking the speed limit, and certainly creating a lot of wash. One of them had a group of people sitting on a tiny afterdeck. They barely gave me a glance as the boat went by, but they all looked a little surprised as I nipped in behind the moment it passed so I could surf their wake! The Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame kayak handled it all beautifully (with a little help from me), and it was certainly more fun than hugging the bank and just letting the waves buffet me. Several more cruisers provided similar entertainment before I returned to the less frantic River Ant, where lack of wind meant that the gaggle of 1930s heritage sailing boats from Hunter’s Yard were all having to use their quant poles to provide some propulsion.

The kit
Kayak: Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD

And in other news, if not entirely unrelated, I’ve released a new book on Amazon Kindle: “The Broads – A unique National Park”. Everything you want to know about the history, wildlife and landscape of the Broads, along with a guide to places you can visit.

Sunset cruise

Saturday, June 8th, 2013

When I started my Broads canoeing project, it was always my aim to try various ways of avoiding the crowds in the summer. I could of course get up really early and savour the waterways before the holiday cruisers have their breakfasts. But a rather nice alternative is the sunset cruise. Hire craft have to be moored up by 8pm, which means there’s enough time to get a paddle in as the sun goes down, and I always think there’s something rather magical about watching the sun set while you’re on the water. You do of course need to be prepared to paddle as the light is fading, and to be equipped with a navigation light to ensure you’re visible to any non-hire craft that may still be about.

I had a trial run last week, starting from a very nice pub called the Rushcutters Arms at Thorpe Green, on the outskirts of Norwich. The plan was to set off just after 6pm, paddle upstream along the River Yare, and then onto the Wensum into the middle of Norwich. I’d allowed two hours to get up to the sluice at New Mills, and an hour and a half back, a total of 7.5 miles. I guess my paddling companion Amy wasn’t quite prepared for the return journey, as she told me her boyfriend was on standby to pick us up at New Mills. But the idea was to get the return journey through Norwich as the sun was setting.

Having done the trip from New Mills to Thorpe Green last December, it was interesting to see how different everything looked going the other way. Nowhere was that more apparent than as we approached Carrow Bridge. Every major road into Norwich has a sign saying “Welcome to Norwich – a fine city”. Hundreds of years ago, the River Wensum was the major route in and out of the city, so it was rather nice to see a sign on the side of the bridge to welcome waterborne visitors.

There are 12 bridges over the Wensum between its confluence with the Yare and New Mills, and they vary from the ultra-modern footbridges like the Lady Julian and Peter’s bridges, to the medieval Bishop’s Bridge, and my favourite, the cast iron St. Miles Coslany Bridge, built in 1804. But apart from seeing just how many pigeons nest underneath them, you do get a completely different perspective on these historic structures when you see them from the water.

With the sun setting just after 9pm, we did the final half hour with the light failing, but it was rather lovely to see the Yare totally deserted. We made it back in to the Rushcutters within 10 minutes of my estimate for the trip, with time in hand to order a meal as well as a beer! It did highlight a minor problem with the improvised mounting for my navigation light, but that’s something I’ll hope to have cracked before the next trip!

The kit
Canoe: Sevylor Colorado Premium
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD

Ant-astic paddling!

Monday, May 6th, 2013

As the weather warms up, I’m finding it rather easier to do Broads trips in my Sevylor Colorado Premium inflatable canoe which last a bit longer than a couple of hours. I still have to be mindful of getting tired, however, particularly when I’m on my own, so always make a point of turning back towards base while I still have something in reserve.

My most recent trip saw me on my own, using the double-bladed kayak paddle. I started out from Neatishead Staithe, paddling along beautiful Limekiln Dyke until it widened out into Barton Broad. From here I headed north, and while being out in a fairly large expanse of water guarantees a few bumps, it was a lot more pleasant than the last time I came here in December.

Just as I’d cleared the broad and was heading upstream along the River Ant, I heard a single low-frequency toot, rather like someone blowing across the top of a large bottle. Was it a bittern, the rare and elusive heron-like bird which lives in the reed-beds of the Broads? I had to wait until my return journey a couple of hours later to confirm my suspicions, when I heard several bittern calls.

Having been used to the trees lining the Broads rivers looking fairly stark throughout the winter months, it was a delight to see them with leaves, and some in blossom. And so I kept on paddling, all the way to Wayford Bridge and the head of navigation for Broads cruisers on the Ant. I kept on going a little bit further upstream, into the beginnings of the North Walsham and Dilham Canal, but decided that this was the point when I ought to be sensible and start heading back while I still had some energy!

I’d just passed the turning for Stalham when I heard the sounds of a steam engine puttering away behind me, and was greeted with the wonderful sight of the Falcon. Dating back to the 1890s, it’s a wooden launch powered by steam, with a distinctive brass chimney. Owned by the Museum of the Broads in Stalham, they’d just started their summer schedule of rides, which are not at all expensive. Definitely one for another day out!

In the meantime, the Broads canoeing project will be showing signs of progress with the first two features due for publication in the next few weeks. I’ll post details and links when available.

The kit
Canoe: Sevylor Colorado Premium
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD

The depths of Hope

Saturday, April 13th, 2013

Last weekend saw yet another interesting trip in my Sevylor Colorado Premium inflatable canoe. Launching this time from Rockland, the plan was to cross Rockland Broad, and take a small channel northwards, heading for Wheatfen, home of the Ted Ellis Nature Reserve. I vaguely remember reading something ages ago about sunken wherries in Rockland Broad, but it was only as we got there that my memory was stirred. Called “The Slaughters”, it’s a line of 12 old sailing wherries sunk bow to stern, with another one beam on to the bank. They were scuttled here during World War Two, but not all of them sank evenly, and with enough bits of the wrecks protruding from the water at low tide, they slowly became colonised by trees and other plants.

Most of Rockland Broad is pretty shallow, and motorboats that choose not to stick to the marked channel just to the east of The Slaughters may find themselves getting stuck in the mud. My paddling companion Amy and I had crossed over the line of mini-islands for our foray into Wheatfen, paddling up the narrow channel as far as the “Keep Out” sign on the edge of the reserve. It was on the way back as we crossed the line once again, this time between the shore and the most northerly island, that we felt and heard a terrific thump and scraping underneath.

Hearts in mouths, we stopped paddling and listened for the sound of escaping air. Fortunately we were OK, and it was only later when we got back in that we discovered the clip-on fin which attaches to the underside of the canoe to keep it tracking straight had been knocked off. I found out subsequently that we’d passed over the wreck of a wherry called “Star of Hope”. Ironic to be nearly scuppered by something with such an inspirational name!

We carried on out along the dyke to the River Yare, and bashed upstream against tide and current to the scene of my previous solo trip, Surlingham Broad. It took us well over an hour to get there, but it was worth it for another peek into the mysterious wonders of the shallows. I’d been thinking that the paddle back would be pretty easy, with current and tide in our favour, but while in the shelter of Surlingham a strong wind blew up, and of course it turned out to be a head wind. Blowing against the tide and current, it whipped the water up into angry little waves, which slapped against our bow. So what I’d hoped might have been pretty much a free ride back to Rockland turned into a battle.

Every so often, I’d find myself unable to control the canoe as we slewed round sideways. I thought it was just a combination of the conditions and me getting tired. Of course at that point I was unaware that we’d lost our tracking fin. We made it back after an epic seven mile paddle, muscles aching. But despite our mishap this time, I’m thinking I may well pay The Slaughters a return visit sometime soon, this time a little more carefully!

The kit
Canoe: Sevylor Colorado Premium
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD

Doorstep wilderness

Sunday, March 24th, 2013

Last Thursday saw another thin sliver of sunshine and not much wind, allowing me to do one of the canoeing trips in my Sevylor Colorado Premium inflatable canoe which I’ve had on the cards for a long time. Just outside Norwich, a loop in the River Yare at Brundall encloses Surlingham Broad, which has to be one of the most incredible watery wilderness places so close to civilisation. A dyke from the river leads you to Bargate, a small broad which during the summer sees quite a few holiday cruisers anchored using mud weights, enjoying the wonderful feeling of isolation. It’s historically significant in that it was here in the 1950s that Dr Joyce Lambert took some of a series of borings across the Broads which led her to establish that far from being naturally formed, the Norfolk Broads were in fact the result of human activity – mediaeval peat diggings which subsequently flooded.

At one side of Bargate, there’s a chained-off area which stops boats from running into the wreck of a sunken wherry. More intriguing for adventurous canoeists is the narrow channel behind the wreck, which leads into Surlingham Inner Broad, completely inaccessible to boats. I did go under the chain fence to investigate, but unfortunately for me, the channel was so overgrown, I didn’t dare risk trying to force a way through. It probably would have been OK with a glass fibre kayak, but not so sensible with an inflatable.

So I headed west, into the shallows of Surlingham Broad, an incredible maze of narrow waterways and reed-covered swamp. Even with a map it would be very easy to get lost in here – I was using a Satmap Active 10, satnav with 1:25,000 Ordnance Survey mapping, so I could see precisely where I was, and which channels to explore. Even so, there were points where the map indicated the channels had further to go, but the reality was they were too choked up with vegetation. I was also mindful of the fact that the bottom of my canoe was inches from a carpet of reed stubble underneath, and the tide was going out, so after an hour or so I retreated to deeper waters.

I finished up doing a stretch of the River Yare, stopping off for a while at Brundall Church Fen, and enjoying the sublime peace of the river without any motorboats charging up and down. It won’t be much longer before that all changes, and the hire cruiser season starts up in earnest! After paddling five miles, I pulled back in to my launching point at Coldham Hall Tavern. Cheese omelette and chips washed down with a pint of Humpty Dumpty Little Sharpie – went down rather well!

The kit
Canoe: Sevylor Colorado Premium
Personal Flotation Device: Palm Taupo
Satnav: Satmap Active 10 plus Broads 1:25,000 scale map
Accessories: Riber throw line (used with karabiner for mooring), dry bag, PFD